My alarm goes off at 3.50 am. The driver picks me up half an hour later and we make our way through slumbering Kigali towards the Virungas, a mountain range consisting of eight volcanoes (some still active) shared by Rwanda, Uganda and Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC).
It takes five hours to drive from Nairobi to Maasai Mara. Our Landcruiser negotiates Nairobi’s infernal traffic, passes by a sprawling slum settlement, and a couple of hours later we are crossing the Rift Valley and heading towards the land of the Masai. Our destination is the Maasai Mara plain, a massive national park blending smoothly into Serengeti on the Tanzanian side.